Russian Ignition, retro back-fit of points & Condenser
by Sidney Pollard

Replacement of the electronic ignition system with a mechanical advance using points and condenser.

Note: Only perform one task at a time! What I mean by this is do not do this mod and adjust the carburetors as one task. Perform one task at a time and then run the bike to ensure that that task works. If you perform more than one task at a time without a test run and the bike doesn't run, you have no way to know which task caused the problem. This way if the bike doesn't run and did before your last task, you can be assured that the problem lies within your last task. I have known good mechanics with average troubleshooting skills that have performed several complex task at once only to end up with a major headache.

1) The first thing to do is to remove the electronic unit in it's entirety.  Type 2, 3, & 4 units are located entirely under the front cover.  On Type 1 systems the black box is under the seat. 

2) Keep the wire that supplied power to the old unit that comes from the kill switch (normally red) Check that it supplies 12 volts when switched on and off at the kill switch with the key on.

3) Mount the mechanical distributor base under the front cover where the electronic unit was over the shaft that extends from the camshaft. Then mount the points cam and flyweights on the need of the shaft.

3.a) There are two styles of cam and flyweights. The one piece unit, less desirable due to soft pins that tend to wear out. The two piece unit better quality, but tricky as the top plate has to be put on correctly. When done correctly there are two square opens created, if done wrong the opens created are angular and the flyweights will not fling out and advance the timing.

4) After the mechanical system is mounted apply a few drops of oil on the felt to lube the points/cam rider.

5) Now back to the wiring. The red wire from the kill switch is to be wired directly to one side of the coil and the other side of the coil is to be wired to the post on the outside of the mechanical distributor unit. Wiring is now complete. A note about the coil; The coil should have a primary winding resistance of 5 ohms. Most electronic ignition coils have only 1-2 ohms, so you should replace the coil or add a 3-4 ohm 25 watt inline ballast resistor between the coil and the distributor. The Type 1 coil was 5 ohms, but not types 2,3 & 4.

5.a) Adjust the points gap. Using the kick starter turn the motor over till the cam opens the points to their maximum opening. At this point loosen the top screw above the points plate about 1/2 a turn and use the bottom screw to open and close the gap. Then adjust the gap using a feeler gage to 0.04mm-0.06mm or just go with 018" and lock down the top screw. Turn the motor over and recheck your gap, if correct - GOOD, if not, repeat the process until it id correct.

6) Now it is time to set your timing. (To do this you will need a 12 volt test light, you can make one with a tail light bulb with two lengths of wire 12" long soldered to it, one on the base and one to the bottom contact with alligator clips at each

end or you can just by one if you don't have such.)

6.a) Connect the test light between the triggered side of the coil and ground. (The triggered side of the coil is the side that goes to the points)

Note: there is a big difference in the Urals and the Dnepr's timing settings, I will give you both as 6b and 6c below.

6.b) This is for the URAL, Remove the rubber plug that allows you to view the flywheel and see the timing marks. Now look for the arrow by itself (-->), not the dot arrow (* -->) as the dot arrow is used for setting the electronic. Set the motor at the point where the plain arrow (-->) lines up with the mark on the case (normally identified as M3 -). Turn on the key and make sure the kill switch is also no. Now, back off the three screws that hold down the unit and move it to the point just where the test lights, at this point tighten the screws and recheck. The light should light at the point where the arrow comes around and lines up with the case mark. If not do it again until it lights at just that point.

6.c) The Dnepr is done like this, Turn the key and kill switch on. Now use a paper clip to hold the flyweights out to the full advance and use the small (b) on the flywheel and line it up with the mark on the case. Adjust the distributor to the point where the light lights when the flywheel mark (b) and the case mark line up. Now, remove the paper clip and the light should go out, then come on again when the weights are opened to the max point. It not, repeat the process until the light lights when the flyweights are opened fully when the (b) on the flywheel is lined up with the case mark(-).

7) replace the units cover and see if the bike will start.

If the bike starts I would like to take this time to congratulate you an a job well done!

Mechanical points systems can be found at select Ural dealers such as Cheek Cycle and Crawford Sales for around $50 each. Please understand that this will violate the EPA's approval of your bike and that a good electronic system is far better than this old system. Advantages to this old system is that it is an affordable fix for a bad electronic system ($50/$400) and something that you could fix on the side of the road if need be. I wouldn't advise you replace a good electronic unit, but it is assuring to have this system onboard for an extended road trip, just in case the electronic unit decides to go South when you want to go in a different direction.

Sidney F. Pollard III